Husqvarna 2008 TE610 - Modifications

December 5, 2008, version





Click pictures to supersize.

                                                                      Alphabetical table of contents 

Bags - tank & seat 
Clutch cable and bracket 
Exhaust wrap 
Fork bleed valves 
Front sprocket 
Lambda Sensor Removal 
Leo Vince X3 muffler 
Manufacturer labels 
Pick up new bike 
Problems found  
Rear sprocket 
Setup - initial 
SPOT mount 
Strip off unwanted parts 
Tire - front 
Tire - rear 
Vent hose - engine and tranny 

busy Pick up new bike

My wife and I drove to Loveland to pick up my new TE 610 on March 15, 2008. I did a test ride, signed the papers, loaded the bike, and beat a hasty retreat down the front range, trying to beat a weather system crossing the mountains of northern Colorado. We made it to Salida just in time.

The TE looked great in my garage, but there was much work to do. I spent two days preparing and personalizing the TE. I like a 'naked' bike look, and often remove unwanted plastic panels. The TE was no exception.



I checked the sight glass to make sure the correct amount of oil was in the engine/tranny and then checked the coolant overflow bottle. Spot on!

I emptied the gas tank and weighed the bike; it weighed 296 pounds. The bike was stone stock with no mods, fluids topped up, and the gas tank was empty. After filling with 3.25 gallons of gas, the TE weighed 317 pounds.

busy Rear race sag (rider aboard) was measured at 2.25". The forks had virtually no static sag and only about .5" race sag. The unladen seat height was measured at 38.5".



I set the shock low-speed compression damping adjuster to full soft (all the way out, then in one click), which allows the suspension to break in over the full stroke. I also wanted to set the fork compression damping, but upon inspection, I discovered there was no compression adjuster on the bottom of the forks. This despite what the owners manual indicated. I'm not happy about this. I think an $8,000 moto ought to have adjustable fork compression damping.

busyI lowered the triple clamps so the forks stuck up about 1" above the triple clamps.

I set the rear suspension race sag at 4.125". The unladen seat height was measured at 37". Note: I had not yet ridden the TE (except for 5 miles at the dealership.)

I removed the tank and checked wiring and cables to make sure nothing was pinched. There was very little to check.


busy I checked for grease in the shock linkage and found, to my pleasant surprise, these zerk fittings on the lower shock linkage. There was grease oozing from the ends of each bushing, but I gave both zerks a squirt of my preferred bearing grease (with moly) then wiped the excess grease off so no dirt would collect in the area.

The steering head bearings were well greased, so I left them untouched, other than to wipe away a bit of visible excess grease on the outer surfaces.

I removed the canister, joined two segments of the tank vent hose, and routed the hose along the frame below the radiator. I plugged the intake manifold tube with a vacuum plug from NAPA (3/32").

I cut the nubbin off the end of the sidestand bolt. It weighed 5 g. Now I can trust the bike to not fall over when I put the sidestand down. No, it never fell, but it was close too many times.

I removed an extraneous plastic clip from the clutch cable where it bends to go under the fuel tank. It was one of those clips that holds two hoses/lines together, but no other hose in the area fit the open spot, so off it went.


I adjusted the foot shifter up one notch and trimmed the plastic sprocket cover so the shifter would clear.

I routed the clutch cable through the handlebar clamp. I adjusted the handlebar angle and hand controls to my preferred positions.

I set the front and rear tire pressure (they were way overfilled). Italian air smells funny.



I removed many unwanted parts, including the buddy pegs, side panels, fuel tank side panels, turn signals, reflectors, mirrors, and heat shields.



I made some Kydex covers for the exposed electrics.


busy Taillight

I replaced the large, relatively heavy taillight assembly and brace with a light-weight Baja Designs LED taillight. The license plate bolts onto the flat surface; I used a plastic backing plate because the license plate is wider than the BD assembly.



Taillight, BD, LED Dropdown - about $60.  Baja Designs


busy Fork bleed valves

I installed a set of STR fork bleed valves. STR does not make bleeders for the TE, so I took a chance and ordered the KTM bleeders. They installed and worked perfectly; no oil leaks and the air bleeds when I push the buttons. I used the smaller o-rings that were already on the bleed valves; the larger o-rings were not used. You can get the KTM bleed valves in polished, black, and orange (YUK). The polished ones match the fork tops nicely.

Speed Bleed Valves KTM-all models - about $35.  System Tech Racing


Front sprocket

I replaced the 15 tooth front sprocket with a smaller 14 tooth sprocket made by PBI. It weighed more than the stock very-holey Husky sprocket.




I installed a bicycle rear-view mirror on the left side of the handlebars.



I found and corrected a few minor problems during the setup and strip days.

Two out of four airbox cover screws were finger tight only.

Two out of ten 6mm left side engine/tranny bolts were loose.

The rear brake hose makes a bend to the left and down as it leaves the master cylinder and travels down the swingarm. The bend in the hose was touching the transmission. I cracked the hydraulic brake-light switch bolt just a tinch and twisted the brake hose to the right, then tightened the switch bolt back down. That looked and felt good.


The left side lower radiator shroud mounting bolt was cross-threaded and I replaced it and the ruined captive nut.

Two bolts in the rear frame and fender area were cross-threaded.

Four shouldered spacers were incorrectly inserted into the fender mounting holes and partially crushed and deformed the hole edge and nearby fender.

Two larger shouldered spacers were incorrectly installed on the turn signal wires and were hanging in the breeze. They should have been mounted from the outside of the fender.

The locking ring on the ignition key mount was loose.

The dealer happily replaced a marred left-side plastic cover.


busy 280 miles

After removing parts, I weighed the bike; 275 pounds. Not bad. I started doing break-in rides of about 30-50 miles per day. After a week of riding and 280 miles on the odo, I checked the unladen seat height again; it was 36.5".


busy Skidplate

I wanted a Hyde Racing plastic skidplate like the ones on my CRF230F and CRF250X, but they aren't available yet. So I got an aluminum skidplate in the interim. I added bicycle innertube pieces along the frame rails to keep the noise down.



Aluminum skidplate - about $88.  Moto Tech  Boise, ID  208-376-8324


Skidplate Update

After calling Hyde Racing several times and hearing them insist that they did not plan a plastic skid plate for the TE610, I finally capitulated and called George (at Up-Tite). Yes, he had the skid plate for my bike and the price was now $195 because the price of stainless had gone up, blah, blah, blah. I sent him an e-mail with my name, address, etc on Wednesday and a box arrived by uniformed delivery the following Monday. That George is nothing if not prompt when it comes to orders.

I never really wanted the Up-Tite skidplate because it looked so HUGE in all the pictures. And HEAVY. And NOISY. But Hyde Racing let me down and all I had was George's creation. You see, although the Ricochet skidplate that I bought from Moto Tech was only a stop-gap, once Hyde dropped the ball, I was going to stick with the aluminum unit. Until I read Geek's report on ADVRider about taking a hit on his engine case because of the skimpy design of the skidplate. His skidplate looked just like the Ricochet and I didn't want to take a chance and bust a hole in the case of my black beauty. After perusing every picture I could find of the Up-Tite unit, I decided that it would offer the protection I needed and I'd just have to put up with the size, weight, and noise.


As I unpacked the box, I was stunned by the Up-Tite skidplate. It was enormous. And heavy. And looked noisy. But once I put it up against the engine, I could see that the size was necessary in order to cover up all the vulnerable areas. And the weight really wasn't that bad: the Ricochet weighs 3 pounds 10.5 ounces and the Up-Tite weighs 4 pounds 1.65 ounces, only 7.15 ounces heavier. Not even a soft-drink heavier.

I noticed the Up-Tite has what appeared to be a heavier base and thinner wings than the Ricochet. Measuring I found the Ricochet to be a uniform .16 inch thick whereas the Up-Tite has a .18 inch thick base and .12 inch thick wings. How clever; heavy only where you really need it. I think the many holes in the Up-Tite keep the weight down also.

busyI really like the Up-Tite mounting system; no more mangled round-head allen bolts to cope with. And the drain holes are just where they need to be. On my first ride with it mounted, I didn't hear a peep out of it; no ringing or clanging. It's very quiet and very reassuring.

Aluminum skidplate - about $195.  Up-Tite Husqvarna  Santa Ana, CA  714-540-2920
PS I sold the Ricochet.


busy Leo Vince X3 muffler

I talked to Jeff at Hall's Cycles on March 28 about the Leo Vince X3 muffler, and he said his information was that it would fit the '08 TE610. So, I ordered one. UPS delivered a huge box on April 2; not counting the weekend, that's three days shipping time!

It was fun to unpack the box and all the bags inside and to read all the Italian instructions (English also). It looked to be pretty straightforward, so I started right in. Several hours later, I was all but finished. It was too late to ride, so I left it alone in the garage overnight. I did have a peek before going to bed; it sure looks purty.  Continues -->


I took the TE out for an installation lap (a la F1). There was one Harley pop on the overrun during the first shift from 2nd to 3rd, but, after that, there were no further shenanigans. The engine pulls a bit stronger in the mid-range; I was unable to test full throttle because I was riding on 35 MPH limit county roads. Later today, I'll take it out to the dirt.

The LV is definitely louder than the stock muffler, throatier is what I'd say. It's also louder as you rev out in the mid-range. I hope this does not become annoying when dirt riding.


The X3 weighs 2 lbs 3.2 oz less than the stock muffler, all fittings included on both. The X3 is 3 1/2 inches shorter than the stock muffler. That's about $158/lb or $99/inch.

Despite one minor problem, the installation went well. The X3 mounts to the stock muffler mounts using carbon fiber straps. The problem arose during the initial fit while I was installing the bolts finger tight only. The rear carbon fiber strap passed over the Leo Vince decal. For a normal decal, this would not be a problem, but this decal is about 1/16" thick and would cause the carbon fiber strap to bend as it passed over the decal. Sharp bends in carbon fiber are not recommended. Besides, I didn't want the decal covered. I called Leo Vince USA and was told that the decal could be peeled off with no harmful effects.

Well, I didn't want to peel the decal off, so I had a peek into the front connector pipe and found a minor problem. When the pipe was welded to the main body, a small bump developed on the lower circumference of the joint, probably from deformation during welding. I could see where someone had used a grinder to remove part of the bump, but there was still too much left. So, I used my grinder to take off a very small amount of additional material. The muffler then mounted further onto the main exhaust pipe, and the carbon strap just cleared the decal.


Be careful mounting the carbon fiber straps. First off, they will scratch the aluminum, so don't slide them back and forth on the muffler body, or you'll be very disappointed to see scratches. Next, make sure the straps are correctly oriented on the muffler body. The muffler is flat on the top and bottom, and the straps are flat where they mate there. You should gently rock the straps towards and away from you to get them to seat just right.

I used a thin aluminum spacer on the front mount and a thick spacer on the rear mount; these are supplied in the X3 kit. The spacers fit over the small cylindrical guides that stick out from the TE sub-frame. Kewl.

I installed the US small-diameter insert in the end of the muffler and the USFS approved spark arrester screen as well. The gasket went on next, then the end cap. The four end cap bolts were exactly the right length to clamp everything down (I measured). I noticed the end cap bolts had anti-seize on them, and I followed suit by putting anti-seize on the muffler band bolt and the carbon fiber strap mount bolts.

Don't forget to peel the wimpy plastic decal from the back of the muffler before starting up the first time. Heat will melt it, and it stinks. Don't ask me how I know.

Leo Vince X3 muffler - about $348.  Hall's Cycles

Leo Vince X3 Muffler SOLD

After two rides for a total of 73 miles, I decided to sell the Leo Vince X3 muffler. It's too loud for my taste. A rider in CA bought the X3; he'll be showin it off soon, see if you can spot him.


Biggie Pix showing current state of mods on 4/3/08.


Lambda Sensor Removal

The stock fuel injection system is a closed loop system because it gets feedback from the lambda sensor (oxygen sensor) telling the ECU/ECM what's going on in the combustion process, thus closing the fuel injection process loop. If you remove the lambda sensor, you turn the system into an open loop system. There is speculation that when you remove the lambda sensor, the fuel injection system will revert to a 'race' map. This is based on the assumption that without any feedback (open loop), the ECU/ECM must do 'something' and that a 'race' map is the default map. I have no definitive proof of what happens; I'm just passing along some speculation.

You can remove the lambda sensor from the exhaust pipe and replace it with the lambda sensor plug and gasket. The Workshop Manual for DOHC models (TE, TC, TXC 250-450-510) describes the parts and procedures; these apply to the 2008 TE610 as well.

Workshop Manual for DOHC models - 8000 B0148 (02-2008)
Page O.35 shows the plug and gasket.
Page O.51 shows the simple install procedure.


After removing the lambda sensor from the exhaust pipe, disconnect the electrical connector end from the wiring harness and insert the lambda sensor connector into the wiring harness. The TE610 Parts Catalog shows the connector.

TE - SM 610ie 2008 Parts Catalog - 8000 B0835 (01/2008)
Pages 92 and 93 show the connector and part number.


These three parts are available together as a kit. I don't have the kit part number, but your Husky dealer may be able to help. I have heard that the hop up kit from the 250/450/510 models contains these three parts.

  busy busy

Lambda sensor plug
(about $43 at Hall's)


Lambda sensor plug gasket
(about $1 at Hall's)


Lambda sensor connector
Part number 26
(about $17 at Hall's)


busy Rear trials tire

I installed a Pirelli MT43 trials tire on the back wheel. I plan to ride my TE610 mostly on the dirt (95%), riding on blacktop when I have to (5% or less). The stock Metzeler Karoo is very squirreley in the dirt, so I decided to switch to the MT43. This tire is DOT approved and rated "Load Range B" and speed rated "P" (up to 90 MPH ouch!). Despite it's road rating, the MT43 works very good in the dirt and on rocks. It hooks up great as long as you go easy on the throttle (harder than it sounds). I installed two rim locks.

On my test ride with only the MT43 installed, I could easily negotiate some rocky sections that I had been having trouble with before. The tire circumference of the MT43 is smaller than the Karoo; 81.5" MT43 vs 83.5" Karoo. This is about a 2.4% reduction which is equivalent to adding a tooth to the rear sprocket (45→46  2.2%), so I can now go a bit slower in the technical stuff.

I'll monitor it's performance and report later.

Pirelli MT43 trials tire - about $61.  American Motorcycle Tire/AMT


Here's what is on the tire:


DP 4.00-18 64P
(1140) MT43 MOPM 189


DOT XE Y2 E145 4307
E3 75R-0055467

MAX LOAD: 280 Kg (617 LBS) AT 230 KPA (33 LBS) COLD


busy Front trials tire

I wanted to install a front Pirelli MT43 to match the rear, but my tire source doesn't sell them. So I got the street version of the IRC TR-11 trials tire - the TR1. I'm hoping it will last as long as the rear MT43. This tire has the same "P" speed rating as the MT43. I installed one rim lock.

On my test ride with both front and rear trials tires installed, I was able to get around in the rocks even better than with just the rear MT43 installed. The trials front allowed me to get out of the gravel and rollers and up onto slab rock with the greatest of ease. Turns at corners were more precise and sure footed. I'm really looking forward to having the suspension shortened; the TE may be trail worthy!

IRC TR-1 street tire - about $33.  American Motorcycle Tire/AMT


Here's what is on the tire:


3.00 - 21 51P
4 PR

DOT CJ24 TLA 1607 S-I 3K

MAX LOAD 195 kg (430 LBS) AT 225 kPa (33 PSI) COLD

Tire numbers


Rear Karoo



Front Karoo



83 1/2"

81 1/2"


83 1/4"

81 5/8"

Tire weight

14 lb

13 lb


8 lb

6 lb


26 lb

27 lb


17 lb

18 lb

Carcass width

4 11/16"

4 3/16"



2 3/4"

Knob width

5 1/2"

4 3/16"


3 7/16"

2 7/8"

Height, rim to ground

3 7/8"

3 15/16"


2 9/16"

2 3/4"

Wheel base 59"


I did a check on the most recent full tank of riding: 186 miles used 3.1 gal (11.8 Lit.) giving 60 MPG.



Fork mods

I disassembled the Marzocchi Shiver forks to have a look at the compression valves and shim stacks and also to see if I could shorten the travel by installing spacers on the damper rods.

busyThe compression valve, bolt, and shim stack were partially covered with a thick, white, greasy substance that looked and felt like vaseline. You can see small blobs of it in the picture here. It was inside the valve orifices also. I think that this 'stuff' wouldn't be good for the valve action, so I cleaned it all off.

The order of parts from top to bottom as mounted in the forks is:

  One shim - 23mm o.d. and .30mm thick
  Compression valve
  11 shims; see next panel -->
  Large threaded mounting piece with 21mm hex head

This last piece would have the adjustable compression screw and rod in a 'normal' Shiver fork.



The compression valve shim stack is shown above:

The sizes, from the left end are (o.d. and thickness in mm):

  12  .10 (top shim as mounted in the fork)
  23  .15
  23  .15
  23  .15
  12  .10
  21  .15
  19  .15
  17  .15
  15  .15
  13  .20
  11  .20 (bottom shim as mounted in the fork)

Several values have been corrected. Apparently I was not careful enough when doing the initial measurements; I caught the errors when I was updating the shim stack.

I installed spacers on the damper rods, shortened the spring pre-load spacers, then cleaned and reassembled the forks, adding Honda HP fork oil (5 wt). I reduced the fork stroke to about 9 1/2 inches. I installed a shorter front brake line. I adjusted the rear shock spring pre-load to balance the bike front to rear, lowering the bike about 2 inches overall. Eventually I'll install a shock spacer to correctly set the shock stroke.

busy After two test rides totaling 106 miles, I checked fork travel by measuring where the dust had been cleared from the fork lower by the dust seal at one or more points in the ride when the forks stroked the most - about 8 1/8 to 8 1/4 inches. This is about 1 1/4 inches less than the total fork stroke, so I think everything is adjusted pretty good. The modified front forks felt much better than stock, probably because of the lighter fork oil because I did not change fork valving at all.

Note that there is a total of 10" of lower fork tube showing below the dust seal. I measured the distance between the tire and front fender at 10.5". These numbers substantiate that the tire will not hit the fender at full stroke.


busy The unladen seat height is now measured at 35.5". This is as low as I need to go to insure that I can handle the TE on technical terrain. Not to be confused with TST (tight-single-track), which I will probably avoid due to the weight and size of the TE and my small stature. It would be a handful that I plan to avoid.


More fork mods

After riding about 500 miles with the shortened forks, I decided that the damping was too harsh and so I called Les at LT-Racing to ask for advice. Les would normally ask that a rider send his suspension to the shop where Les would perform his magic and then return the suspension to be put back on the bike and enjoyed. I did not want that amount of down time, so I was looking for a spring change that I could perform quickly and easily. Les advised me and we decided on new .46 fork springs to replace the .stock 50s and a new 5.8 shock spring to replace the stock 6.4 spring.

busyThen the subject of the missing adjustable compression dampers came up and after I shamelessly pleaded, Les "offered" to sell me a set, which I quickly accepted. Soon, the parts arrived, along with a note from Les reviewing what we had discussed in the way of setup.

First, I assembled the adjustable compression dampers, base valves, and shims. The Marzocchi part number on each bag was 717096/R; don't know the Husky part number.

busyHere are the fork internals, all cleaned up and ready to reassemble. The stock, non-adjustable fork bottom bolts are shown here, but I installed the adjustable units shown above.


I used Amsoil 10 wt suspension fluid at 100mm from the top to start with. After an 80 mile ride, and fiddling with the damping adjusters, I decided a lighter weight fluid and more air space would work better (I had advice from Les). I replaced the 10 wt with 5 wt and dropped the level to 120mm.

On the follow-up ride, the lighter weight fluid worked very good. The fluid height seems to be right on; I didn't bottom the forks, and got about 90% of max stroke on the very rough stuff.

Once I was happy with the forks, I then replaced the shock spring and set out for another test ride. The rear-end worked great with no further adjustment needed. Note: I removed the swingarm to get the shock out and in - far easier than it sounds.

I am not a suspension expert, nor even very knowledgeable, but with Les' advice and the 45 Zoke service manual handy, I had no trouble putting everything together and making adjustments. For many riders, sending the suspension off and having everything done for you is an attractive option. For those like me, being able to do your own work is very satisfying.

I highly recommend Les at LT-Racing. He knows his stuff and will work with you to get the setup you want.

I'm very happy with the suspension and my wrists are thanking me. It was 'neat' to lay on the ground and adjust the fork compression dampers while stopped on the trail. While others may not find the need to do this, I fiddle too much to not have this 'feature'. I'm sure I won't be adjusting the forks very often once I get them dialed in to perfection, but it's nice to know that I can adjust for differing terrain as needed.     YMMV

AMSOIL suspension fluid - about $8.  Mike Troast AMSOIL dealer


busy Handlebars, grips, handguards, odometer, bags

I swapped out the stock fat bars for some Pro Taper standard 7/8 bars in a bend I like and I added new Spider grips (dual density rubber). I installed Tusk handguards at the same time. On the crossbar went my Garmin 60 CSx cradle cushioned by a layer of sorbothane between two mounting plates of Kydex.

The new trials front tire has a much smaller circumference than the stock Karoo and despite reading about the adjustable-for-tire-size stock odometer in my Owner's Manual and in online forums, I was never able to change the circumference setting. That and the inability to change the display while moving prompted me to install the Trail Tech Endurance computer/odometer you see in the pictures.

Pro Taper handlebars - about $59.  Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
Spider grips - about $15.  BRP/Billet Racing Products
Tusk handguards - about $65.  Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
Sorbothane pad 12x12 (only used small piece) - about $20.  Edmund Scientific
Trail Tech Endurance computer (KTM model) - about $80.  Trail Tech

  busy busy

I swapped the starter button/run button assembly to the left side of the handlebars while making all of these changes. I like to twist the throttle while pushing the starter button and I find it very difficult to do this when they are both on the right side. A new smaller light switch sits inboard, out of the way so I won't bump it while riding on technical routes.

Also note the tank bag and rear fender bag that I've been using for a month or so. I put tools and extra gloves in the tank bag and an MSR Pak Jak in the rear fender bag. The tank bag is retained by nylon web straps that mount to existing holes on the fuel tank; I installed brass grommets in the ends of the straps. The rear fender bag is securely fastened by running the front straps through slots cut in the fender rather than using the fender clips. I use the fender clips on the rear straps.

Tank bag (MSR Roost Pak) - about $21.  Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
MSR Fender Tube Pak - about $18.  Rocky Mountain ATV/MC


busy Rear sprocket

I swapped out the stock rear sprocket for a Stealth Tri-Metal sprocket one tooth larger (46). Now I can ride some easy TST (tight single-track trail). I rode some of the Rainbow Tr and the gearing works great. The only drawback is the original sprocket weighs 287g and the tri-metal weighs 691g, a 404g increase. Ouch!

Stealth Tri-Metal sprocket - about $75.  Sprocket Center


It's time to find out how much my gearing has changed from stock. So far, I've done the following:

Smaller front sprocket
Larger rear sprocket
Smaller diameter rear tire


6.7% reduction
2.2% reduction
2.4% reduction

The total reduction is about 11%. Although this reduces the top end speed somewhat, the ability to go slower in first is worth it to me.


Clutch cable

I read in several forum posts about problems with the clutch cable breaking. Someone mentioned that the cable was not aligned correctly and the inner wire was rubbing on the cable housing causing the cable to fray and eventually break. I had a look at the clutch cable on my TE and sure enough, the cable is misaligned. The picture --> clearly shows the inner wire rubbing on the cable housing. If you look further down the clutch cable, you'll see that it is definitely in line with the closer end; there are no kinks or bends until the first major bend in the distance.

I looked at the various parts and saw that the clutch cable mounting bracket is not aligned correctly. I plan to make a bracket that points the clutch cable end directly at the end of the clutch lever arm. I think all I need to do is change the angle of the slot on the mounting base so the cable mounting face is at the correct angle. Stay tuned; pics at 11.






Note: this picture cannot be supersized; it's already at max.

The new clutch cable bracket

I ordered three new '08 TE610 clutch cable brackets so I could ruin one or two and still have a spare. During my most recent maintenance session I had an opportunity to remove the stock bracket from my TE and compare it to the new brackets. Guess what? They are different. Not much, but enough to matter. When I mounted one of the new brackets, the clutch cable pointed almost exactly where it should and the inner wire hardly touched the outer cable housing.


old on left,
new on right

Look at the slots - the new slot is slightly shorter than the old slot. The new right leg is slightly wider than the old right leg and the slot looks like it's moved to the left a bit. The new hole location is very slightly different. I can't photograph each bracket in such a way as to make it more obvious, but when you have the two brackets side-by-side, the differences are obvious.

All of these changes combine to put the new bracket at a slightly different angle than the original bracket and the brake line more correctly aligned to minimize inner wire abrasion.

And yet, I wasn't happy. The inner wire was not perfectly centered inside the outer cable housing. So I filed the left side of the slot ever so lightly so the bracket could be rotated counterclockwise ever so slightly and viola, the inner cable was in perfect alignment. See for yourself.



Note: this picture cannot be supersized; it's already at max.


Here's a picture of the new bracket with the left side of the slot filed; you can barely see the difference.

After I did all of the above, I spent a few minutes thinking about what was going on. The original bracket on my TE610 is different than new brackets being shipped from parts inventory. Not everyone is having clutch cable problems. Could this mean that some TEs have brackets like my TE had and others have the kind being shipped now? It's possible. It's also possible that Husky may ship brackets like the one on my TE originally to fulfill parts orders. If you have a concern about your clutch cable and see that it is misaligned like mine was, then order a new bracket. But inspect it before mounting, and do a check fit before you mount the bracket for good.

The bracket is part number 8000A6101 and costs $2.81 from Hall's. Get two; they're cheap!
BTW, I'm using the stock Husky clutch cable - it works just fine now that the cable is aligned correctly.

Follow-up note: After riding my TE several times with the new bracket installed, I inspected the bracket and clutch cable and noticed something I should have spotted earlier. The clutch arm swings in a shallow arc causing the inner wire to change angle with the outer cable housing as the arm moves through its arc. I rotated the bracket clockwise about half way back to its nominal position and the inner wire now splits the difference in its side to side swing, never touching either side of the outer cable housing. So not very much filing of the left side of the groove is needed; just a tinch to help the alignment. YMMV


busy Engine and tranny vent hoses

During a routine service to check the valves, I had a look at the throttle body, air box, and air boots and came across the vent hose that has the masking tape. The tape apparently helps keep the hose seated in the back of the airbox. How tacky is that (the tape)!

I tracked the hose back to where it mounts to a stub on the frame above the engine. Right next to that stub is another stub; this stub has a hose connected to it also and the other end is connected to a vent on the cylinder head.

  busy busy

<-- engine vent  
<-- main vent hose  
   tranny vent -->

Looking around, I spotted another stub down by the tranny and it had a tranny vent hose connected to it.

So how does all this work? The cylinder head is vented to the frame and the tranny is vented to the frame. The hose with the masking tape (main vent hose) then carries the fumes from the frame to the airbox.

busy The fumes enter the airbox AFTER the air filter. This means hot, oily air is entering the air stream AFTER the air filter and then traveling into the throttle body. Notice the black deposit on the butterfly? That's from the hot, oily air. And that has got to stop.

  busy The first thing I did was to plug the hole in the back of the airbox with a rubber plug. I added a retaining screw to insure it wouldn't back itself out.

busy Then I added a Uni breather filter to the end of the masking tape hose (after removing the tape!)


Uni breather filter UP-103 clamp 1/2" - about $13.  Chaparral

  busy I routed the hose horizontally towards the shock area, then found a nice niche for the breather filter to tuck into.

Now there is no hot, oily air going into the throttle body and that has got to be good for performance.


SPOT mount

I first tried mounting the SPOT on the handlebars, but my body blocked the signals whenever I leaned forward over the bars. With this new location, I expect better results; I rarely ever bend over backwards.



The zip-ties are a temporary backup retainer; I'll stumble upon something a bit more elegant one of these days.


busy Exhaust wrap

I disliked the aluminum heat shield on the exhaust pipe and removed it eventually. Then I lightly burned the leg of my riding pants; ouch! I read all about the benefits and drawbacks of exhaust wrap and decided to go for it. I think the stainless exhaust pipe will withstand the punishment and not corrode, as was the case with one rider's pipe. A 30 mile test ride proved the concept; my leg stayed cool. The shock reservoir felt cooler also.

Exhaust wrap (2"x15'), stainless hose clamps (8), silicone hi-temp paint - about $48.  Checker Auto Parts or other auto parts store




There has been quite a discussion on several bulletin boards about removing the canister and what to replace it with. Some riders take it off, add a hose, and they're done (that's what I did). Others vacillate over removing the green filter and others advocate adding some one-way valves. I decided to have a look inside the canister to see if anything inside (or not inside) would shed some light.

Pardon this picture; I decided to cut the canister open before remembering to taking a picture. So I just put the top two pieces back on for this pose.

There is no valving of any kind in the hose connector on the top of the canister.



The first item to pop out was this spring. Literally!

Just below the spring, you can see a metal divider filled with holes. I reckon the spring is there to compress what lies below the divider (hint: charcoal granules).


Rather than drag this out, here's all the contents in order, left to right in top-to-bottom order:
  upper divider
  charcoal granules
  lower divider

There is no valving of any kind inside the canister.



I put the granules in a bowl because they were going all over the place. Carbon granules on a plastic table with static electricity makes for a lively show. In the picture above, the small pile of granules is supposed to represent this bowl of granules.



This is the bottom of the canister where all the valving is located. The hose that connects to the small thin connecter on the left goes to the port on the intake manifold near the throttle body. The hose that connects to the larger connector on the right goes down the frame and is vented to the open air.



The two round features located above and below the center opening in the picture are casting byproducts. The darker black circles slightly to the right of each of these are holes. These two holes and the hole on the right through thin metal and the large center opening with the metal insert with five smaller holes all connect to the right chamber on the bottom of the canister and I can blow air through any and all of these and it exits the large right connector on the bottom. Air passes easily when I blow and suck, so there is no valving on these passages.

The passage on the left with the check ball connects to the left chamber on the bottom. I can suck air past the check ball when I suck on the bottom left connector, but air does not pass if I blow (makes sense).

Based on air flow tests as above, the two chambers on the bottom are not connected to each other, but I won't know for sure until I cut the chambers open. If they are not connected, then there is only one valve component - the check ball.


Oops, out of time. More when I get time.

I'll be getting inside the connectors on the bottom of the canister next. That's where all the valving is.






Safety Regulations label - on the outside of the front fender, lower rear

This label declares compliance with applicable safety standards. On one forum, a post stated that removal of the label would ruin it - so leave it on the fender. Hope you don't have to buy a new front fender some day.

busy Vehicle Emission Control Information label - on the rear fender panel, under the seat

This label shows tune-up specifications and adjustments, fuel and oil specifications, and a schematic of the evaporative control system.

busy EPA Noise Emission label - seat underside

This label shows the EPA noise level that the exhaust system meets - 80 dBA at 4900 RPM.

busy EPA Noise Emission label - on the muffler

This label shows the EPA noise level that the exhaust system meets - 80 dBA. The label is actually stamped into the aluminum body of the muffler.

busy ECU label - on the ECU, under the seat

This label identifies the ECU with the part number in the upper left.

I plan to make a small box with about a dozed LEDs mounted on the top, each LED to be energized by leads currently going to the stock odometer. When all the functions are transferred, I'll probably remove the stock odometer. This will not be an easy project because you can't just swap leads; some of the functions require some electrical circuitry. Considering my limited electrical knowledge, this may take a while (I'll be asking for help from my more electrically astute friends). For now, the stock odometer stays but the odometer part is disabled; I had to mount the Trail Tech sensor and so I used the stock mounting hole on the brake caliper.